tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88296650341699433452024-02-19T14:22:26.459-08:00Freth's RecumbentsI'm working on 2 different cargo bikes right now ... and showing some of the other Recumbents that I've made.Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.comBlogger167125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-10428683919912077782014-07-05T10:23:00.000-07:002014-07-05T10:24:42.087-07:00My Old Recumbent photosThey aren't big, but they are the best I have available at this time. These are some of my first recumbents.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jQ528rID1BdpPtJuLu82j2vV7VtIMVuie9IKlCVKfrtHqCHl5G5nK9RiYizyFWprYnuraUXTjLmP_1a8eVDb1P06s-Sh8Z3VO8f4Viz5I0ifZBvF3l_0GYg34aylt8Sv9JbuCqB1-Jc/s1600/1-SWB_Huff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jQ528rID1BdpPtJuLu82j2vV7VtIMVuie9IKlCVKfrtHqCHl5G5nK9RiYizyFWprYnuraUXTjLmP_1a8eVDb1P06s-Sh8Z3VO8f4Viz5I0ifZBvF3l_0GYg34aylt8Sv9JbuCqB1-Jc/s1600/1-SWB_Huff.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a></div>
Bentech SWB - muffler pipe and the forks from a Huffy Mtn bike<br />
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Me on the Bentech SWB - the Bentech LWB was supposed to be my main bike, but this one became the one that I'd grab and ride much more often.<br />
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Bentech LWB - 4130 chromoly main tube<br />
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Bentech LWB - muffler pipe<br />
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Tour Easy clone - made from a Japanese 10-speed bicycle<br />
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Redondo LWB Lowracer - showing the intermediate jackshaft that makes this bike fly so fast!<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-26722498005293515422014-07-05T06:22:00.001-07:002014-07-05T06:29:15.285-07:00Large Cartoon Photo of my Sun EZ Speedster CXThis is a larger photo of me on my Sun EZ Speedster CX SWB recumbent.<br />
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<b>The Sun Speedster is a very maligned bike. </b><br />
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My experience has been that a lot of bicycle shops didn't set them up correctly. Sun only sells to bicycle shops because they know that most owners have no idea how to properly set up and adjust their bikes. The problem was, the only information on how to properly set up the Speedster, was a photo on the Sun website. No written instructions. You had to pay really close attention to details in the photo.<br />
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The additional problem that a lot of riders had, was attempting to ride the Speedster with the handlebar stem poking up vertically (90 degrees to the ground). This makes for really squirrely handling. That's the position you have them in for getting on or off the bike. But to ride, you need to have the steering stem locked back closer to your body similar to that in the photo above. Then it handles very sedately.<br />
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So, due to the usual comedy of errors ... I was able to purchase my Speedster from a bicycle shop for only $400 (brand new). After setting it up properly, I've had many enjoyable years riding it!!<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-13396270574361314372014-07-05T05:58:00.000-07:002014-07-05T06:34:06.081-07:00Re-modified Don's delta trike (sigh) <b>July 4th, 2014</b> - the owner (Don) was complaining that the main
tube was canted about 2 degrees to the right. So today we dismantled
it. We removed the rack, wheels and axles, the seat, and disconnected
the shifting cable. We inverted the frame, I was going to use a
hacksaw, but instead used the cutting wheel on the 4-1/2" hand grinder.
I cut from the bottom at the point where the main tube connects with
the rear unit ... but not quite all the way through ... just short of
the top re-enforcing plate. Cut the support tubes from the seat back
tube, and cut off the seat mount unit. So, with the main tube only
connected to the rear unit by the top re-enforcing plate, put it upside
down in a vise, checked for level on the main tube, then torqued
(twisted) the rear unit until it was level with the main tube. That
re-enforcing plate is pretty tough (1/8" thick) and with Don pushing up
on one side while I applied my weight pushing down on the other side.
It took us 3 attempts before we finally moved it enough to the proper
position. Then welded it back together. Adjusted and welded back on
the seat tube support tubes, welded on a new seat mount configuration
(with a little more rearward angle to the seat), and welded on a roller
to support the bottom return part of the chain so it doesn't hang down
and swing back and forth. Bolted the wheels, axles, and cargo rack back
on. Then we cable-tied a basket to the rear cargo rack for the owner
to put groceries in when he goes shopping ... or books when he goes to
the library. And finally hooked back up the shifter cable after making
an alignment adjustment to the rear derailleur mount.<br />
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I'm talking about being exhausted!<br />
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The above photo is the re-completed modified delta trike ... <br />
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This is the lower chain roller ... when forward pressure is placed on
the pedals, the top part of the chain sits about an inch (2.5 cm) above
the roller unit. There is a shield over the roller to keep the chain
from hopping off the roller (had that problem before on another
recumbent that I built).<br />
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Looking at the area where all the work was concentrated today. Right in
the middle you can see the silver "top re-enforcing plate" in front of
the rack (the plate I didn't cut through). This is where all the critical
action took place.<br />
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In this photo, there is a better view of the seat mount (above the
basket) ... and you can see the chain roller down in front of the seat.Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-77846939185925230832014-06-10T12:27:00.002-07:002014-06-10T12:27:42.770-07:00Rear Fender<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I think a fender on the rear is absolutely essential. I've had wet
stripes up my back along with dirt & grit in in my hair ... way too many times.</div>
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This fender is bolted on in two spots (front and top front). The wires at the rear are currently Gorilla Taped into place on the inside of the frame. At least they aren't rattling too much ... I'll drill & tap holes to bolt them on .. shortly.<br />
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<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-16051751276499530592014-06-02T19:14:00.000-07:002014-06-02T19:14:32.707-07:00More on MeshI rode the trike 15 miles today. Climbed a fairly stiff 2-mile hill between the 7-1/2 to 9-1/2 mile markers. No issues with the mesh seat. very comfortable. Before I started, I did place a 1-1/2" wide x 3/4" thick block between the seat connector and the main tube. What this did was push the lower end of the seat slightly up in the air so that I wasn't fighting sliding down off it. Good ride with no seat issues.<br />
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view from the left side.<br />
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view from the right side. Still have to adjust the left front brake.<br /><br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-51619275718118051142014-05-17T17:59:00.000-07:002014-05-17T17:59:46.419-07:00Mesh Seat & Bell FlagI did another 12-miler. That original design seat just isn't comfortable enough for me to ride long mileage on it. So I decided to pull a mesh seat off another one of my recumbent bikes.<br />
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Here it is with mesh seat and Bell flag ...<br />
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A closer view of the seat. Need to make a newer mesh cover for it. I need to make those EMT bars that are wider horizontally and then come up vertically instead of at a slant. That's so I can get a little tighter turning radius.<br />
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I welded some tabs on and bolted the seat to them where the rear fork meets the main frame.<br />
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Here's the bracket I made to attach the bottom of the seat to the frame main tube.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-79138837003318816902014-05-08T10:07:00.000-07:002014-05-08T18:15:41.578-07:00Heel Strike, Warrior Flag4The front portion of my main frame tube was parallel to the ground. From the top of the tube to the ground was 12". I found that I was have periodic heel strikes with my size 10 (EU 43) clipless sandals. I decided to cut from the bottom up the joint where the two tubes are spliced together ... leaving the top weld in place. The hacksaw removed some metal, then I lifted up the tube so the bottom opening was about 3/16" wide. That isn't very much, but it resulted in about a 1-1/2" rise to the top of the front tube. I then brace this with some metal chips, and welded it all back together. This has pretty much eliminated heel strike. Other than a short, high, bump (speed bumps). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQTe4POZ-GfN9sN34tph-rRD4yh3ORNLmt4Yj8u7csGPdp1F2pMQfzS9sXm5CemRzgMVnwbrnskQOJi85MHbA_GpC7iu-_m4HWm3qSUh0Isj-s-ACe7HaCHIxQybIgkCkWvr8MTqZShso/s1600/front_tube2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQTe4POZ-GfN9sN34tph-rRD4yh3ORNLmt4Yj8u7csGPdp1F2pMQfzS9sXm5CemRzgMVnwbrnskQOJi85MHbA_GpC7iu-_m4HWm3qSUh0Isj-s-ACe7HaCHIxQybIgkCkWvr8MTqZShso/s1600/front_tube2.JPG" height="308" width="320" /></a><br />
This is that seam where I cut up from the bottom.<br />
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Here you can see that the front section of the main tube rises slightly.<br />
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The tip of the flag pole is in the same plane as the left front wheel. Yes, I pulled the support brace in another 7/8".</div>
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Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-11305895500751881062014-03-10T15:43:00.001-07:002014-03-10T15:57:05.438-07:00Axle Plates for any Cart or Sulky PlanHere's some more detail on the axle plates used on the Freighter or Dog Sulky ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YzOQzGxnWVQCxFzP-5rpk5KCxO2z-iWOKtOoIxmHcaJLlhVLHz7Bc4Erp0DRQpPXJzv9t6-D2bCc_SHKB6joKwVkqghrncCCez_cm_-9G1Q2ls-PxpzIS44lWSASFn5cnX7rOFIMEYA/s1600/axle_plate1a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YzOQzGxnWVQCxFzP-5rpk5KCxO2z-iWOKtOoIxmHcaJLlhVLHz7Bc4Erp0DRQpPXJzv9t6-D2bCc_SHKB6joKwVkqghrncCCez_cm_-9G1Q2ls-PxpzIS44lWSASFn5cnX7rOFIMEYA/s1600/axle_plate1a.jpg" height="640" width="280" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDCIYcWVzfifMuxvpPEoFuBphWsRfmNXgHwyWM-j3N6wVy7_b65Y0xqZaZ7JPI8T91HLKMiXd9Y0mISxpvQ79ltEhANg_87EpGiRuxPP05MksxiHT9EV7keAdRrPk_rkVr4DnWgDNrzg/s1600/axle_plat1b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDCIYcWVzfifMuxvpPEoFuBphWsRfmNXgHwyWM-j3N6wVy7_b65Y0xqZaZ7JPI8T91HLKMiXd9Y0mISxpvQ79ltEhANg_87EpGiRuxPP05MksxiHT9EV7keAdRrPk_rkVr4DnWgDNrzg/s1600/axle_plat1b.jpg" height="169" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1J_u8ydhxtrSZI0Hb6-H0KdwpccULIPyppHg15E3UVyn5wIark4NOvkKHuRocoZt_q78a8sjUeMlmo_Ivxg13FT8WvDO5IUROxA374C_MelqVPquD9uUS5BwSQ6dIT9VvPjGWmyPf-A/s1600/axle_plate1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1J_u8ydhxtrSZI0Hb6-H0KdwpccULIPyppHg15E3UVyn5wIark4NOvkKHuRocoZt_q78a8sjUeMlmo_Ivxg13FT8WvDO5IUROxA374C_MelqVPquD9uUS5BwSQ6dIT9VvPjGWmyPf-A/s1600/axle_plate1.jpg" height="320" width="280" /></a></div>
This shows the type of electrical box covers to buy ... the top right one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMUPTKDXuuFjWsXpL4Y1llS__ucAjvbG6tqV3t7-f72qM87RMh4X1K4B_vhvm4KyXbcBEk9rqmBsI4D7lgzWL1XUSbO8G-9WOzKcM48Y_XwnGy15jP0BHduG8X-BqoLKpmEDxKADFC2Y/s1600/axle_plate2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmMUPTKDXuuFjWsXpL4Y1llS__ucAjvbG6tqV3t7-f72qM87RMh4X1K4B_vhvm4KyXbcBEk9rqmBsI4D7lgzWL1XUSbO8G-9WOzKcM48Y_XwnGy15jP0BHduG8X-BqoLKpmEDxKADFC2Y/s1600/axle_plate2.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></div>
Drill then hacksaw the slot<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCG3zx7VVW2hE0hyhyphenhyphenLAkvmFihSFGvNAw7Z39ZxPtZawxYcRNfWgl1YfVWfPMS2LkLiPkApVRBRzHn-hPRG9BHSR0lXAAxKn3lLqfRzJxggCcCIJVzbTCSpJ1O4IG9vpzphsS10ogHISE/s1600/axle_plate3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCG3zx7VVW2hE0hyhyphenhyphenLAkvmFihSFGvNAw7Z39ZxPtZawxYcRNfWgl1YfVWfPMS2LkLiPkApVRBRzHn-hPRG9BHSR0lXAAxKn3lLqfRzJxggCcCIJVzbTCSpJ1O4IG9vpzphsS10ogHISE/s1600/axle_plate3.jpg" height="153" width="320" /></a></div>
Forming them to the tubing so you can weld or bolt them ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvp9CK6QXxJd2m73qX3_lH-caxO-KbNdNeAOzh49zZtlS8huOeSGvU88kmzL2cK5HAj_LUyJHrncJa7np4HaqiDS9VUAJMQ_pqMMYR9pWI-FwjnkB8NhQVV13sXiRs9HtHVAUdjyLLzEY/s1600/axle_plate4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvp9CK6QXxJd2m73qX3_lH-caxO-KbNdNeAOzh49zZtlS8huOeSGvU88kmzL2cK5HAj_LUyJHrncJa7np4HaqiDS9VUAJMQ_pqMMYR9pWI-FwjnkB8NhQVV13sXiRs9HtHVAUdjyLLzEY/s1600/axle_plate4.jpg" height="184" width="320" /></a></div>
Using a straight edge to line them up before welding or marking to drill<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-31056256330941975252014-03-10T12:59:00.002-07:002014-03-10T13:03:44.812-07:00Dog SulkyI noticed that someone was asking about building a sulky to be pulled by a dog. Plans for such a sulky were in a 1983 book titled "The Cart Book With Plans and Projects" by William L. Sullivan. This book is out of print. I haven't searched lately to see if it is obtainable.<br />
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Here's probably enough information to be able to construct one on your own.<br />
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The parts list is in the first photo ...<br />
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Look at the electrical box cover plates used to hold the axles - bolted or welded on ...<br />
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Here are the markings to use with a pipe bender<br />
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These are the pieces for making the seat<br />
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The harness is a critical component - adjust according to the dog<br />
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That's it. I didn't want to post every page of the entire chapter ... figured this was enough <br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-86840359722592369882014-03-10T12:30:00.001-07:002014-03-10T12:30:33.449-07:00Warrior Flag3Today I got a couple of photos of the flag in action ... as my neighbor rode it up and down the street. I'm still amazed that I can turn a 360˚ circle inside of the 16 feet width of the narrow road out front.<br />
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Here we are seeing the flag from the front as Dan rides towards me.<br />
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Here is Dan riding away from me. The flag position looks pretty good to me ... out there, but not obtrusive enough to warrant a citation.<br /><br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-62066691804769757352014-03-06T15:35:00.002-08:002014-03-07T10:40:15.602-08:00Warrior Flag 2Based on advice in the AtomicZombie forum, I shortened my bracket and pulled the flag in closer to the body of the trike. From the front of the trike, you can see that the flag tip is the width of the trike when making a left turn. I also had to tighten up the left axle bolt, and the under-seat steering unit. Less slop in my steering and front end now. Don and I rode our trikes together yesterday on a short 2 mile circuit. Racing downhill back towards the shop was a lot of fun!<br />
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This is looking straight down the center of the trike (no rear wheel sticking out to either side).<br />
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Side-by-side rear photos for comparison. Do a vertical line up from the left front tire and look at the difference in the amount of pole visible before it hits the base of the flag. I definitely brought it in. But still feel comfortable with the "protection" that it affords.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-65420922054769941012014-02-25T15:55:00.003-08:002014-02-25T16:02:39.925-08:00Warrior FlagI've been test riding. As a result, I have made some minor modifications. 1) You will notice that the angle of the upper portion of the seat tube has been changed to better mount a rack or rear engine. 2) The brake levers have been rotated more to the rear of the bars. Just more comfortable for braking and keeping my hands out of the wheels. 3) I needed a flag so that cars and trucks will pay attention to me and not attempt to crowd me when they pass.<br />
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Side view showing the flag. My flag pole was missing a flag, and since no one will see much of the vest from the rear if I was wearing it ... I decided to tape it to the pole and use it as a flag.<br />
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You'll notice that the flag pole bottom bracket attaches to the idler pulley bolt at the base. And I made a bracket that attaches to the seat bolt at the top of the seat. It has a 2-1/2" length of 1/2" tubing that the pole passes through. That controls the angle of the flag and secures it in a fairly rigid position.<br />
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From the rear, you'll notice that the flag pole extends a foot or more to the side of my left front tire. I have found from experience that this tends to keep cars and trucks from crowding you on the roadway as they go past. Due to there being no nifty bicycle trails around here ... I ride a lot of roads. With this arrangement (I tried it on the main road today), if there is oncoming traffic ... the vehicles behind you will slow way down and wait to pass. Opposing traffic on a narrow 2-lane road with no shoulders, will also slow way down and stay to the far edge of the roadway while going past.<br />
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The trike seems to roll easily without apparent mechanical drag (brakes, wheels, etc.) The flag didn't provide significant drag either ... although any flag will provide some drag. The smaller hills that I've pedaled up could be easily spun up (spinning). I have a small gear on the front and a mega-tooth gear 42(?) on the rear. I'll try spinning up a steep hill tomorrow and see how it goes. I've stayed out of the smallest gears on the rear ... unless there is a tailwind or a good down-slope, it is just too stiff pedaling. Although it does go FAST!<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-34283034342521026772014-02-18T19:25:00.000-08:002014-02-18T19:25:45.059-08:00Riding WarriorHere's where I'm at ... It's not really finished "done". But the shifters, and brakes are all on there and functional. The seat foam isn't glued on yet ... I just set the 3 pieces on there and sit down on it and ride. I rode it up and down the street a bunch of times. The angle on the seat-back post needs to be adjusted and trimmed. A couple other little tweaks need to be made. But that is what test riding is all about. My neighbor got on it and rode it. He didn't tip over, break anything, or injure himself. He was very pleased with the speed and handling. <br />
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Right side view<br />
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Left side view<br />
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3/4 view from front<br />
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I'll probably continue riding and tweaking it this next week. I need a water bottle cage on the front boom. I haven't got any, but fenders would be nice ... it's particularly annoying with the back wheel throwing dirt into my hair. I need a rack or something on the back. A flag poking up, back, and slightly outward would be very handy. Car drivers tend to drive around the tip of flags so they don't damage their cars. So I want it to stick out to the side far enough that they go around me and don't clip my left front wheel.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-79868174907564019982014-02-17T15:57:00.003-08:002014-02-17T15:57:48.275-08:00Rear Derailleur CableI finally welded on 4 cable stops and 2 cable guide rings. I've heard that the less overall cable housing you have, the less friction. So I figured to eliminate the length up behind the seat back. And on the underside of the rear fork. Here are the photo segments starting at the rear wheel.<br />
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Notice the wire under the rear fork.<br />
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Here's the run paralleling the seat back. I used a small length of cable housing to bridge up to the rear fork.<br />
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The cable housing runs behind the idler pulley and through the 2 guide rings ... then up the right handlebar.<br />
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Here I'm attempting to show the full length of the cable run. I think I've got it adjusted so it will shift the full run of the gears. I need to bolt the seat back on, set the foam pieces on. And test ride it up and down the street. Once it is fully functional ... then it will be time to strip it all down and paint it. sigh. :-)<br /><br />
Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-17841435484763918762014-02-12T11:22:00.000-08:002014-02-12T11:22:37.252-08:00Friction Thumb ShiftersSomeone sent a request asking for closeup photos of the shift levers I put on my trike. <br />
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The brand name on the lever and the spring clamp is "Lubao".<br />
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The flat spring hooks over the nub protruding to the left. You kind of have to hold it in place while screwing in the phillips head screw visible on the top of that box thing.<br />
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Here you can see the screw from the backside of the unit. On the left (angled towards you) is the thumb lever.<br />
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Here's the view from front side. I just slid it into place and screwed it down until it firmly clamped.<br />
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I tried to find the brand on the internet, but was unable to find anything other than a town named Lubao in the Phillipines. Do a search for "friction thumb shifters" and look at the Suntour & Shimano ones. The Falcon ones are a bit cheap in construction.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-10548560543812204272014-02-11T16:56:00.000-08:002014-02-11T17:22:01.159-08:00Cabling 2I watched TV today more than working on the cables. With the shift levers on the front of the handlebars, I had to turn them way inward so they wouldn't hit the tires. And then they were running into the frame and hitting my leg on tight turns. So, I turned the brake levers outward. I mounted the brake cables. Then adjusted the front shifter cable. Still pondering how I am going to mount the rear shifter cable.<br />
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Here's a topview with the levers positioned and the cables mounted.<br />
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Here's a bottom view showing how I routed the cabling.<br />
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This is showing how I ran the cabling up to the front shifter. I didn't have a handy cable stop to weld on so the cable would clamp. So I took this ring that does the same thing off of another bicycle. It works fine.<br />
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This is showing that the brake levers clear the tires by about 3/4". You'll notice that I ran the brake cable over the top of the right arm. I found that if I attempted to attached it to the bottom of the arm, the loop tended to push into the spokes.<br />
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This is showing the left bar all the way forward.<br />
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This is the right bar all the way forward.<br />
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Here's a top view showing a hard left turn. All cables functioned without problems in neutral and extreme positions ... no binding. Tomorrow I need to pull the seat and the rear pulley off so I can weld on some chain stops and cable guides.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-81098582778963023142014-02-10T15:54:00.000-08:002014-02-10T15:54:33.781-08:00Cabling 1I've got to look at some other trikes to see how they are doing their cabling. I'm kind of stymied at the moment. I put on one cable to the front shifter. So I now have 3 gears up front. But still only one in the back. And no brakes.<br />
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Here's the one cable for the front shifter.<br />
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Here's the shift lever ... and the brake lever below it.<br />
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I did ride it up and down the street a couple of times while changing the gears up front. Got some pretty good speed. Particularly since I can only use the smallest gear in the back.<br />
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<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-72515856911122819072014-02-08T11:41:00.000-08:002014-02-08T16:55:54.379-08:00Chain Drive 2Busy today taking brake levers and shifters off of handlebar units. I put the tube on the non-drive portion of the chain. And having done that, I had to go out and test ride it on the street again. There are definite speed limitations when you can only use the small gear on the front. With no brakes, leaning into a turn, slapping the bars as far as they will go in one direction -- I am amazed at how tight a turn it will make!!! Severe fun! <br />
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There it is with the rollers for the drive chain and the tube for the back chain. I figured I could use the tube holders to function as chain keepers ... so the drive chain doesn't pop out of the pulleys. In this configuration I have the back chain directly below the drive chain. We'll see how it works. If there are any problems yet unknown, I may have to move it parallel to and slightly below the drive chain.<br />
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Here's the front roller with the tube holder ...<br />
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Here's the rear roller with the tube holder which is tacked to the bottom of the frame.<br />
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Today if you look down under the seat, you can see the evidence of the chain tube.<br />
FYI - It is 24" between the tips of my handlebars. Has anyone crossed their brake lines? I'm thinking of it because there would be less tight turns and concerns with the cables. The tires on the front wheels are airless. That makes a bit more noise and drag ... but would probably last longer than normal tires, if the trike was motorized.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-19278417125315367202014-02-07T17:12:00.000-08:002014-02-10T15:58:04.648-08:00Chain Drive 1Okay, so I mounted a chain on the frame with idlers. Only one gear on the front (the smallest one). Only gear on the back (also the smallest one). Took some photos. Then rolled it out to the flat road out front, then took off riding down the street, turned right into the driveway, and rode down behind the shop. It moves out pretty good. I won't really know how well it will actually perform, until I get shifters, shifter cables, brake levers, and brake cables on it.<br />
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In order to clear the tie-rod under the frame, I had to make this adapter.<br />
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This didn't turn out very focused ... bottom view of the trike. I have a 3" idler roller (v-belt pulley) on the rear. And a 2-5/8" idler roller (v-belt pulley) on the front. <br />
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A view of the steering (trike upside down). Front chain idler (2-5/8"). Brakes mounted.<br />
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Steering turned all the way to the right. I can achieve these steering angles while riding (without the wheel hitting my leg).<br />
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Steering turned all the way to the left.<br />
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A view from the front (trike right-side up). Clip on pedals are a must! (Crank Brothers Candy 2)<br />
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Here it is just before I took off riding. Next addition is the return chain tube, some means to keep the drive chain from popping out of the idler rollers (it kept coming out of the front one), and brake levers & cables.<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-70552030866290610012014-02-07T16:43:00.003-08:002014-02-07T16:43:25.154-08:00A Quick View of My ShopI'm starting with my workbench and rotating 360 degrees to the right.<br />
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This is my workbench. Drill press on the left. Vise and mig welder on the right. I'm using flux core wire, no gas. On the lower shelf to the left is my 4-1/2" hand grinder. It makes the welds look good.<br />
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Between the bench and the cabinet on the right ... mostly smaller front wheels.<br />
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Additional parts and tool storage. I even have a bicycle maintenance book!<br />
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Here is a TE Clone (upside down), a couple of parts frames, and a stack of rear wheels.<br />
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On the left, my warrior trike frame (upside down). A Sun SWB Speedster. And a SWB Bentech (upside down).<br />
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Boxes of cut up parts, a wind chime, and a couple of wheels.<br />
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A cargo trike and a couple more donor bikes. (not seen in the background is a LWB Mach3.<br />
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A Long-Tom cargo bike that still needs the steering bar to be bent and hooked up to the front wheel.<br />
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There are a few more frames hanging around, but that is about it for my current crop of "projects".<br />
<br />Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-10360196534798844632014-01-22T17:48:00.001-08:002014-07-05T05:58:45.841-07:00DeltaWolf Trike - ModifiedThe rear end was cut off, re-positioned, welded back on, and a cargo rack made and welded on. The seat now rides higher.<br />
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Here is the DeltaWolf Trike as originally built ...<br />
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Rear end of original DeltaWolf Trike.<br />
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Here the rear end has been cut off and reconfigured.<br />
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This is a cargo rack that I welded up out of 1/2' tubing.<br />
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Here's the rack mounted on the delta trike.<br />
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Here it is with a large ice chest mounted on the rack.<br />
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Don, the new owner ...<br />
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My grandsons and Don tested it out. Works great, seat has higher ground clearance which also gives higher pedal to ground clearance. The seat is more vertical to compensate for the ice chest. So this is more of an around town, shopping kind of ride. It has 20" rear wheels and a 16" front wheel.<br />
Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-37917987398125126032014-01-22T17:26:00.001-08:002014-01-23T20:21:02.619-08:003 years later - Warrior TrikeI'm finally working again on the warrior trike. I had to make an adjustment in the right front arm. The bottom of the right front wheel was too far in. After that, had to work on the steering and brake support mounts.<br />
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This is a view with the frame standing vertical so you can look at the steering from the bottom.<br />
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These are the paper and wood mockups that I made before making the metal brake-support mounts.<br />
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Trying out the wooden support and adjusting it to sit flush ... before using to model the metal support.<br /><br />
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From the bottom view, this is the brake on the left ... after it was cut off and re-welded on the first time. I had to cut it off, adjust position, and re-weld a 2nd time so the disc wasn't hitting the brake with those high points.<br />
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From the bottom view, this is the brake on the right. It was re-welded twice as well ... for proper disc placement. I'll take a final photo of them later.<br />
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A rolling frame with foam on the wooden seat. No chain, brake levers, or cables. So, next up is the drive train (chain, derailleur, idler pulleys ...).Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-71223198308828463712013-03-09T16:47:00.001-08:002013-03-09T16:47:09.381-08:00Cargotrike Box MountedHere is the latest ...<br />
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Just have to add the steering module and do a few other minor tweaks.</div>
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Here's the bottom side.</div>
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and the bottom of the whole trike ...</div>
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Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-24022965558500698262013-01-29T20:37:00.000-08:002013-01-29T20:37:14.273-08:00Danish style cargo boxThe Danish style cargo box is almost complete. I cut it out the other day, then finally assembled it today. Lots of glue and staples.<br />
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The box is 33-1/2" long (84 cm), 24-1/2" wide (62 cm), 20" high in the rear (50 cm), and 14.4" high in the front (36 cm) ... so the base is 84 cm long and 62 cm wide.<br />
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Next I need to tweak the metal cargo base just a bit and build the steering ...Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8829665034169943345.post-43024150329143248242013-01-12T19:37:00.001-08:002013-01-12T19:37:13.355-08:00cargo boxesI got the 1/4" plywood to make the box on the cargo bikes. Now I just need to get motivated and make them. It has even been hot during the day, so no excuse there ...Frethhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00982221240115425737noreply@blogger.com0