My Old Recumbent photos

They aren't big, but they are the best I have available at this time.  These are some of my first recumbents.

 Bentech SWB - muffler pipe and the forks from a Huffy Mtn bike

 Me on the Bentech SWB - the Bentech LWB was supposed to be my main bike, but this one became the one that I'd grab and ride much more often.

 Bentech LWB - 4130 chromoly main tube

 Bentech LWB - muffler pipe

Tour Easy clone - made from a Japanese 10-speed bicycle

Redondo LWB Lowracer - showing the intermediate jackshaft that makes this bike fly so fast!

Large Cartoon Photo of my Sun EZ Speedster CX

This is a larger photo of me on my Sun EZ Speedster CX SWB recumbent.

The Sun Speedster is a very maligned bike. 

My experience has been that a lot of bicycle shops didn't set them up correctly.  Sun only sells to bicycle shops because they know that most owners have no idea how to properly set up and adjust their bikes.  The problem was, the only information on how to properly set up the Speedster, was a photo on the Sun website.  No written instructions.  You had to pay really close attention to details in the photo.

The additional problem that a lot of riders had, was attempting to ride the Speedster with the handlebar stem poking up vertically (90 degrees to the ground).  This makes for really squirrely handling.  That's the position you have them in for getting on or off the bike.  But to ride, you need to have the steering stem locked back closer to your body similar to that in the photo above.  Then it handles very sedately.

So, due to the usual comedy of errors ... I was able to purchase my Speedster from a bicycle shop for only $400 (brand new).  After setting it up properly, I've had many enjoyable years riding it!!

Re-modified Don's delta trike (sigh)

 July 4th, 2014 - the owner (Don) was complaining that the main tube was canted about 2 degrees to the right.  So today we dismantled it.  We removed the rack, wheels and axles, the seat, and disconnected the shifting cable.  We inverted the frame, I was going to use a hacksaw, but instead used the cutting wheel on the 4-1/2" hand grinder.  I cut from the bottom at the point where the main tube connects with the rear unit ... but not quite all the way through ... just short of the top re-enforcing plate. Cut the support tubes from the seat back tube, and cut off the seat mount unit.  So, with the main tube only connected to the rear unit by the top re-enforcing plate, put it upside down in a vise, checked for level on the main tube,  then torqued (twisted) the rear unit until it was level with the main tube.  That re-enforcing plate is pretty tough (1/8" thick) and with Don pushing up on one side while I applied my weight pushing down on the other side.  It took us 3 attempts before we finally moved it enough to the proper position.  Then welded it back together.  Adjusted and welded back on the seat tube support tubes, welded on a new seat mount configuration (with a little more rearward angle to the seat), and welded on a roller to support the bottom return part of the chain so it doesn't hang down and swing back and forth.  Bolted the wheels, axles, and cargo rack back on.  Then we cable-tied a basket to the rear cargo rack for the owner to put groceries in when he goes shopping ... or books when he goes to the library.  And finally hooked back up the shifter cable after making an alignment adjustment to the rear derailleur mount.

I'm talking about being exhausted!

The above photo is the re-completed modified delta trike ...

This is the lower chain roller ... when forward pressure is placed on the pedals, the top part of the chain sits about an inch (2.5 cm) above the roller unit.  There is a shield over the roller to keep the chain from hopping off the roller (had that problem before on another recumbent that I built).

Looking at the area where all the work was concentrated today.  Right in the middle you can see the silver "top re-enforcing plate" in front of the rack (the plate I didn't cut through).  This is where all the critical action took place.

In this photo, there is a better view of the seat mount (above the basket) ... and you can see the chain roller down in front of the seat.

Rear Fender

I think a fender on the rear is absolutely essential.  I've had wet stripes up my back along with dirt & grit in in my hair ... way too many times.

This fender is bolted on in two spots (front and top front).  The wires at the rear are currently Gorilla Taped into place on the inside of the frame.  At least they aren't rattling too much ...  I'll drill & tap holes to bolt them on .. shortly.

More on Mesh

I rode the trike 15 miles today.  Climbed a fairly stiff 2-mile hill between the 7-1/2 to 9-1/2 mile markers.  No issues with the mesh seat.  very comfortable.  Before I started, I did place a 1-1/2" wide x 3/4" thick block between the seat connector and the main tube.  What this did was push the lower end of the seat slightly up in the air so that I wasn't fighting sliding down off it.  Good ride with no seat issues.

view from the left side.

view from the right side.  Still have to adjust the left front brake.

Mesh Seat & Bell Flag

I did another 12-miler.  That original design seat just isn't comfortable enough for me to ride long mileage on it.  So I decided to pull a mesh seat off another one of my recumbent bikes.

Here it is with mesh seat and Bell flag ...

A closer view of the seat.  Need to make a newer mesh cover for it.  I need to make those EMT bars that are wider horizontally and then come up vertically instead of at a slant.  That's so I can get a little tighter turning radius.

I welded some tabs on and bolted the seat to them where the rear fork meets the main frame.

Here's the bracket I made to attach the bottom of the seat to the frame main tube.

Heel Strike, Warrior Flag4

The front portion of my main frame tube was parallel to the ground.  From the top of the tube to the ground was 12".  I found that I was have periodic heel strikes with my size 10 (EU 43) clipless sandals.  I decided to cut from the bottom up the joint where the two tubes are spliced together ... leaving the top weld in place.  The hacksaw removed some metal, then I lifted up the tube so the bottom opening was about 3/16" wide.  That isn't very much, but it resulted in about a 1-1/2" rise to the top of the front tube.  I then brace this with some metal chips, and welded it all back together.  This has pretty much eliminated heel strike.  Other than a short, high, bump (speed bumps).


This is that seam where I cut up from the bottom.

Here you can see that the front section of the main tube rises slightly.

 

The tip of the flag pole is in the same plane as the left front wheel.  Yes, I pulled the support brace in another 7/8".