I measured in various directions ... stood it on the floor and looked at it ... and decided that I'd go with it. So welded it up, put the seat on, and sat down. Now I need tie-rods and steering. Maybe I'll get those done on Saturday or next week.
It is looking so much like it's "for real" that it makes me want to finish it to a functional point, and take a ride.
At this point I have the steering arms tack-welded onto the main tube. It stands up all by itself. It isn't tack-welded good enough that I would dare sit on it yet. I'm still thinking and measuring to make sure that everything is aligned the way I want it to be. This is kind of a critical point in the project. The success of the handling and steering is dependent upon this one phase being properly assembled. It may take a few days before I go on from here.
Here's looking from the rear towards the front.
The opposite view - front to rear.
I stood on a box to shoot this downward diagonal foto.
This fork was made according to plans. But the plans didn't take into consideration putting a wheel in there with a drive-ring on it for a GEBE engine. I thought I had about 1/4" clearance, but it turns out that I only have 3/16" clearance between the drive-ring and the fork. So, it is workable ... provided nothing goes wrong. I think that next time I will make the front end of the fork about an inch wider than called for in the plans. That would give an extra 1/2" on each side.
Maybe that is too much. Perhaps only 1/2" wider at the front ... giving an extra 1/4" on each side. ( 1/4 + 3/16 = 7/16") That sounds better now that I think about it ... don't want to make it too wide if you are mounting a "V"-brake on the rear wheel (what with posts and all that).
You have to weld the headset part to the mounting tab ... and you're supposed to get the angle just right by visual, a straight-edge, and a prayer. Because you are gestimating that everything is lined up properly while you hold your thumb at arms length and go "uuhhh-yup!"
Anyway, after welding the hole closed and filling in any other gaps ... it looks somewhat like this ... in desperate need of the grinder. That poor grinder wheel is just about worn down to a tiny nub. I'm going to have to buy another one soon.
This is what it looks like after grinding.
I agree. Nothing that some bondo and covering it up with paint won't fix.
My hubs have these protrusions that looked like it would keep the headtube unit well away from where the disk brakes needed to go. SO, I decided to trim down the hubs a bit. Which meant that the 160mm axle bolt would be too long. The next size I could acquire was 140mm.
So I had to hope that would work.
I cut sections like this off of both sides of the hubs.
Here's a top down view with the brake rotor mounted.
This is a side view ...
You'll jave to scroll down the page to find a previous side view to compare it to.
Another top angle view with the axle bolt and other parts.
Having finally filed the top hole out large enough to fit the 20mm bolt ... I am pondering the effort required to file out the other one. I WILL do it ... eventually. But I think I'd rather go get a haircut right now ...
If the option was to go to the dentist ... I'd start filing again. It really takes time to do this, my T-shirt soaked in sweat, I come home all filthy and my wife wants to know what I've been doing ... just filing ...
after I laid out the two mounting tabs across the steel.
BEFORE I cut the tabs off ... because my little fingers wouldn't be able to hold that little tab when it wanted to start spinning ... and I am allergic to messy blood and missing finger parts.
(Been there ... Done that!)
Why 5/8" (15.875mm) and not 20mm?
I don't have a drill bit that big.
The large rattail file and I will have to enlarge the hole slightly to accommodate the 20mm axle bolt. (sigh) Jack tried to teach me better than to do all that manual labor ... but sometimes you just don't have the appropriate tool ... :-)
This is a 20mm diameter bolt that will be the axle.
IT IS HUGE!!
That is a 1/4" diameter bolt below it.
I purchased it at my local Industrial Fastener store.
Big-Box and TSC don't carry something like this.
I'm thinking of getting the center turned down a little bit.
The Mickey Mouse ears just arrived today.
The top one has the 20mm axle bolt in it.
The ring on the rear drive wheel is for my GEBE engine.
I've got it leaning up against the tree so you can see the 20mm axle bolt in place. I'm sure the two of them will handle A LOT MORE than 300 lbs. (which is more than I weigh) ... just a little engineering overkill. Next time I'll use 15mm axle bolts and hubs.
And since they aren't going to be right next to each other ... maybe it won't be so obvious.
Still haven't finished the adjustable Bottom Bracket.
However, the two headsets have been cut-down, resized, welded, and are ready to use on the two front wheels on the tadpole Warrior trike. The wheels are in the mail ... a friend of mine had them made up. Now I just need some scrap 1/2" plate ... to make two small parts.
Ok. So I haven't finished the bottom bracket unit ... yet.
But I did get started on the two headsets for the front wheels.
You can see the two little tubes at the top left ...
The two headset tubes still need to be cut down to size
after I put the cups in the little tubes and measure ...
so they both turn out the same.
One of the head tubes was sitting around ...
the other I cut out of a small front fork that was laying around.
I'm a little thrashed after 14 hrs of work that finished at 1:30 a.m. this morning ... the trashed part came because I got up at 6:30 a.m. yesterday morning ... and drove 516 miles last night. I'm just not recovered even after 5 hrs of sleep. So, I'll get back to this later.
I took some fotos of the steering on a trike made by S&B Recumbents. This steering has also been modified for the use of a tiller-stick over-seat steering.
This is an overhead view of the steering mechanism.
It uses a round tube at 90 degrees to the main tube.
I believe it has 15mm axle Phil Wood hubs. It is definitely NOT very massive ... quite petite almost, but designed to carry a 250 lb. person.
Here's a view of a hub with the arm and both linkage rods.
This shows the connection between the steering and the linkage arms. There are additional tubes that are actually frame support members and not related to the steering. Pay attention to how the 90 degree arm is connected with the steering headset.
Note the chain routing ...
As wells as the linkage.
Here's a close-up view of the axle connecting with the headset. Notice the grease fitting.
It seems I can never have enough Recumbents ... made 2 Bentech LWB's, 2 Bentech SWB, 1 Toureasy clone, a LWB lowracer, 1 Mach2, 1 Mach3, 1 BMX SWB, bought a Sun EZ-Speedster, made a DeltaWolf trike, a LongJohn cargo bike, a cargo trike, and a AZ Warrior trike. I LIKE USS! See some of my bikes below ...
Due to the intermediate jackshaft, this flies as fast as a 26" rear wheel. (co-designed with S&B Recumbents - no longer in business)
Bought the Bentech plans, made the jigs, and made this from a Huffy Mtn bike & a muffler pipe. I extended the maintube 2" behind the front wheel. It handled nicely and became the bike I rode most because of ease of transport and visibility in traffic. (Bentech no longer in business)
My Wife loved her LWB Bentech ... as you can see by the smile on her face!
TourEasy Clone (found plans on internet). Early on, Gardner Martin did sell plans. Later, he went to selling completed bikes only. Used this bike for about 14 years. Recently I've been pulling parts off of it to use in other projects.
SWB Fully Suspended Mongoose BMX - this was the first "Fully Suspended" type recumbent that I built .. by adding the front boom onto the BMX bike and changing the seat. Needed a stiffer spring suspension in the rear ... everytime it flexed, the bike changed gear due to the change in chain length. That was kind of disconcerting ...
Sun EZ Speedster CX
This is a much maligned SWB recumbent. I love it! And have had many enjoyable years riding this easy steering bike.
Venice Beach Trike
Jack Baker (S&B Recumbents) made this for my wife, a couple years before he died. She needed something more stabile than a 2-wheeler. Despite the high CG, she has yet to fall over on it.
Another Bentech design SWB
I was building this for a guy, and actually rode it. But he changed his mind, and it is still in the shop.
AZ Delta Trike
I was going to build this racing trike for myself ... but the wife gave it to a grandson. So I put 20" wheels on it instead of 26". The grandsons fight over this racing delta trike. I really like the square tube building concept. Easier to align things.
Modified Delta Trike
Totally changed the rear configuration so the rider sits higher ... and mounted a rear luggage rack that I made
Long-John Cargo Bike
Built from plans on Toms Cargo Bikes website ... still need to hook up the steering and go ride it. ...
Dutch Cargo trike
Great way to go grocery shopping!
built based on A.D. Carson plans
AZ Warrior trike
Love riding this now! (Plans from Atomic Zombie). 26" rear wheel, 11-34 MEGARANGE 8-speed cassette on the rear, 22-32-44 cranks on the front.